Let’s talk primer. It’s not the flashiest part of painting a house, but it’s the step that makes or breaks a paint job. Skip it, or use the wrong one, and you’ll be watching your “new” paint peel, bubble, or stain through in no time. Use the right primer, applied the right way, and your finish coats bond tight, look beautiful, and actually last.
We get a lot of questions about primers, so let’s walk through some of the most common scenarios we see in Portland and what we recommend.
What Primer Do You Recommend for Bare Wood?
Bare wood is thirsty. If you just slap paint on it, the wood will suck it in unevenly, and tannins (the natural oils and pigments in the wood) can bleed right through your topcoat.
That’s why we recommend a slow-dry, long oil primer like Rodda Prime Solution Control Oil Primer. This stuff penetrates deep into the pores of the wood, seals it up, and blocks tannin bleed. It gives your finish coats a solid foundation.
Another option? A universal water-based primer like Rodda Prime Solution First Coat. It’s especially handy when you’re dealing with cement fiberboard (like HardiePlank), brick, or concrete foundations. Why? Because it’s formulated for alkaline resistance, which those surfaces need.
How Do You Get New Paint to Stick to Old Chalky Paint?
If your siding has been sitting under the PNW sun and rain for years, you’ve probably got chalking. That’s the dusty residue that comes off when you rub your hand on the paint.
Step one: Clean it. We recommend a thorough scrub and pressure wash with TSP (trisodium phosphate). Let it dry completely. Then rub your hand or a contrasting rag on the surface. Still seeing residue? You’ve got two choices: clean again, or use an additive.
We often turn to Flood Emulsa-Bond. Mix it with your primer or topcoat, and it helps the paint grip to chalky, dusty surfaces that would otherwise reject it.
What Primer Is Best for Rust?
If you’ve got rusty metal on your exterior (pipes, flashing, railings), don’t just paint over it. Rust keeps growing underneath.
We like Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. It chemically converts rust into a paintable surface. It comes in a spray can or brushable liquid. Our preference? The brushable version. It’s got more solids and gives better coverage.
What Primer Is Best for Bare Metal?
That depends on the type of metal. For general use, Miller Paint Acrimetal is a solid choice. It’s designed specifically for adhesion and durability on metal, which is critical if you don’t want your paint flaking off in sheets.
What Primer Is Best for a Wood Door That’s Stained but You Want to Paint?
Rule number one: Oil-based primer only.
Our go-to is Rodda Speed Oil Primer. Another excellent option is Zinsser Oil Cover Stain. Both give you the blocking and adhesion you need to go from stain to paint without bleed-through.
What Primer Is Best for Cedar Bleed?
Cedar is notorious for tannin bleed. For small spots, BIN Shellac or Zinsser Oil Cover Stain does the trick.
For larger areas, we fall back on a slow-dry oil primer like Rodda Prime Solution Control Oil Primer. It’s the best way to lock those tannins down.
Specialty Situations: Glossy Surfaces and Plastics
Some surfaces just weren’t designed to be painted in the first place, such as vinyl shutters, plastic pipes, glossy finishes. But that doesn’t mean they can’t be. That’s where Insl-X STIX Waterborne Bonding Primer comes in. We’ve used it successfully on everything from vinyl windows to shiny trim. It bites into glossy surfaces where other primers would just slide off.
Pro Tips from the Field
Clean and de-gloss first. Primer is not a magic eraser. It can’t stick to grease, dust, or gloss.
Test adhesion. Apply your primer to a small area, let it cure for 24 hours, then scratch or tape-test it. If it peels off too easily, adjust your prep or try a different primer.
Don’t rush drying. Oil primers take longer to dry, but that’s part of what makes them effective. Give them the time they need before applying finish coats.
Why Priming Matters
Primer isn’t optional. It’s the glue between your home’s surfaces and the finish coats that protect and beautify it. Done right, priming extends the life of your paint job, prevents costly failures, and makes the final finish look incredible.
At Pearl Painters, we’ve spent over 20 years figuring out which primers work best on Portland homes in our wet, mossy, sun-baked climate. Whether it’s cedar siding, old stucco, or a glossy front door, we’ve got the right solution.
Thinking about painting your home’s exterior? Make sure the primer step isn’t skipped, or worse, done wrong. Reach out to us for a consultation, and we’ll walk you through exactly what your home needs for a paint job that lasts. We provide exterior painting throughout the Portland area, including Tigard, Lake Oswego, Beaverton, Wilsonville, Tualatin, West Linn, Sherwood, and Newberg.
